The Vitava riverbank at dusk

My feet are treading the cobblestones of “Karluv most” and as if in prayer, I close my eyes and raise my face heavenward to soak in the summer sun. I am on Charles Bridge in Prague, the most precious stone in “the crown of cities”, as Goethe eloquently put it.

Praha is in the heart of Bohemia, poets and romantics’ reference to the Czech Republic. Entering through Staromestská vež, the Old Town Bridge, one can only be humbled by the thought of hands painstakingly laying down the sandstone mixed with egg yolks to strengthen the mortar. Baroque statues line the balustrade — from the Madonna with St. Bernard embraced by cherubim, to the Czech martyr St. John of Nepomuk — reminding me that the ground I walk on is sacrosanct. Painters, craftsmen and musicians surround the area, hawking their art for a few Korunas, their features resonating those of Italians, Austrians, Frenchmen and Spaniards invited to Bohemia in olden days to entertain the aristocracy.

Charles Bridge was built after the Romanesque “Judith most”, the first bridge connecting the banks of the river Vltava, collapsed in a flood in 1342. In 1357, the Czech king Vladislav I and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV ordered Petr Parlér to oversee construction of what was then called “Kamenný most” or simply, Stone Bridge. Legend has it that Charles IV chose to lay the bridge’s foundation in 1357 on the 9th day of the 7th month at 5:31 in the morning so that the dates would form a palindrome of odd numbers: 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1.

Dodging the throng of people (for afternoons mark the peak of walking tour traffic), I exit through Malá strana, the Lesser Town, going rightward to the underside of the bridge, which is lined with quaint restaurants and souvenir shops. The setting sun makes it easy to lose oneself in reverie – even easier to lose all sense of direction to the prospect of discovery.

I was not disappointed. The cobblestone road narrows slightly and gives way to well-trodden grass and patches of earth that rose to a low hill. The Vltava flows and ebbs to the side of the hill and near the riverbank, white swans as high as three feet glide along, fearlessly snatching pieces of bread from children’s hands. Clearly, this is not a spot marked for tourists. Along the hill are worn benches, a few of which occupied by locals, mostly in pairs, engaged in intimate conversation. I look beyond the swans and the children and the lovers on the benches toward the Charles Bridge in the distance. On the opposite bank, a ferry quietly floats downriver, soundlessly passing under the majestic Karluv most.

Stop in Wenceslas Square
I start off early the next morning to soak in Wenceslas Square in Praha 1 — typically the first stop for tourists, as it is the most convenient route from the airport. Cafés and diners and restaurants line the boulevard, mostly al fresco. Lying on tables are baskets of “calty” or plaited buns, made in olden days by local bakers from nearby Celetna Street. Wenceslas Square, named after Saint Wenceslas, the patron saint of Bohemia, is the commercial and cultural hub of the New Town. The numerous hotels, stores, office buildings, currency exchange kiosks and fast-food chains in the area make it a welcome pit stop for travelers.

In the Middle Ages the square was primarily a horse market (Konský trh) and venue for public celebrations and festivities. Founded by King Charles IV in 1348, Konský trh is in the New Town, where mass demonstrations took place in the 1940s and where, in 1969, student Jan Palach immolated himself in Wenceslas Square to protest the Soviet Union’s invasion of Czechoslovakia. As a memorial to Palach, a wooden cross was embedded on the cobblestoned street near a bronze bas-relief and commemorative plaque. Along the square is virtual cacophony of buildings reflecting architectural influences from neoclassical to baroque, from the Melantrich Building (where Alexander Dubcek and Václav Havel emerged on the balcony during the Velvet Revolution), to the ubiquitous McDonald’s with its golden arches. 

Climbing the steps to Národní museum, I glance at the massive statue of St. Wenceslas, at the foot of is the inscription proclaiming Czechoslovakia’s independence in 1918. Prague’s National Museum itself is a treasure trove of over 14 million works of art, music, books and other treasures. In the 1700s, the Society of Patriotic Friends of the Arts began planning the construction of the museum, which was meant to effect “renewed promotion of art and taste”. The establishment of the museum is said to have heralded an intellectual shift in Prague, spearheaded by the Bohemian nobility.

At the end of Celetna Street is the Old Town Square, where prominent Bohemian families once took residence. The house at White Unicorn, house at Stone Virgin Mary, house at Stone Lamb and house at Stone Table have since been converted into art galleries, restaurants and office buildings. Side-by-side and yet standing part from each other in their designs and color, these edifices proudly display the bas-reliefs and murals from which their names were derived. A few steps away, the dark turrets of the Church of the Virgin Mary Before Tyn tower over the pale-hued Golz-Kinsky Palace and houses. Funded in mid-14th century, the Tyn was the center of Prague Chalice Adherent, witness to the beginning and end of efforts to legalize Czech Uktravism.

An Italian meal
On Celetna 5 is Ristorante La Scala, ensconced in a cul-de-sac of sorts, within the premises of the Tyn Vicarage dating back to 1135. The Italian cuisine is authentic enough, servings are hefty and the price, reasonable but the service is wanting—as in many of the restaurants in Prague. Customers must wait to be served, never mind if waiters have seen them enter the premises ten minutes ago. To the side of the courtyard is a lavish crystal and jewelry boutique and off the other corner, one of the countless bookstores and art galleries that reflect Czechs’ love of art and literature.

I pass by the Astronomical Clock created by Mikulas in the 15th century, and the Old Town Hall, the seat of political power in the mid-1400s. The pseudo-gothic Powder Tower — so called because it was a gunpowder storehouse in the 17th century — and the art nouveau Municipal House are almost seamlessly connected and yet starkly contrast each other. Entering St. Nicholas Church, I behold the 19th century crown chandelier of crystal glass, a bequest from the Russian Orthodox Church, and the artfully intersecting ellipsoids that adorn its nave.

How can I pass up the Rudolphinium in its new-renaissance grandeur? On a clear-sky night, its steps afford a spectacular view of the Prague Castle. Built in 1876 initially as a picture gallery, museum and conservatory, now it houses the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. Yet another seat of the arts is the National Theater, built in late renaissance style. At dusk, one can simply cross the street, look over the Vltava and feast the eyes on the eclectic mix of buildings and towers, churches and grand houses on the horizon.
Retracing my steps down Wenceslas Square, I walked to Revolucni, where cozy and clean pensions are located, some as affordable as 45 Euro per day, inclusive of free breakfast and unlimited WiFi time. Off Revolucni is Na Frantisku, offering an unimpeded view of the Vltava River. On this street stands the Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia, with the nave of St. Salvador Church peaking behind it. I cut through Parizska, site of upscale boutiques not unlike those in Paris and New York unobtrusively displaying prestigious clothing and jewelry brands.

My journey would be incomplete without a pilgrimage to Pražský hrad, the world's largest and arguably grandest ancient castle. Prague Castle was constructed in the 9th century at the time of Prince Bořivoj and is now the seat, as well as residence, of the head of state. The castle is perched high on a hill, which takes about half a day to reach via the Chateau Stairs.

Moving up the slope I realize that half a day is too short to explore the passages opening up on both sides, revealing the astonishingly Baroque Loreta, the Basilica of St. George, the gothic-style cathedral of St. Vitus and other sights along the way.  Perhaps the oldest part of the castle is Starý Královský Palác, the Old Royal Palace, which housed ancient Bohemian princes and kings. All Czech presidents were invested on Jezdecké schody, or the “rider's staircase”, while banquets held at Vladislavský sál (Vladislav Hall) in the palace center. I am dwarfed by these ancient structures, which by their sheer height command me to look.

Once again and for the last time, I soak in the summer sun of Bohemia, slowly making my way from Opys viewing deck down Nove zamecke schody, the New Castle Stairs. I am at the Garden on the Ramparts, the Rajska zahrada (Paradise Garden) stretched below me. It is an immortal panorama of cathedrals and towers, bridges and riverbanks, gardens and waterways. I breathe deeply, soaking in the absolute beauty of Praha and finally I understand that this…is rhapsody.

Lufthansa flies once daily from Hong Kong to Frankfurt, four times a day from Frankfurt to Prague. There are at least three international hotels in the area. Hotel Marriott Prague is located close to Old Town Square. The Four Seasons Hotel Prague rests on the banks of the Vltava. Intercontinental Hotel Prague is within walking distance of major tourist spots.